#ADVANCED RAR REPAIR SALE FAIL HOW TO#

The RadRover, RadMini and RadCity all have a different style of axle, by design, compared to the RadWagon since they are outfitted with an aluminum frame. Properly setup and checked as part of normal service intervals and folks wonвЂ™t have any trouble. This is a good tip for owners and service providers for our bikes: Check with us whenever performing service if there are questions on the correct orientation of hardware, getting replacement hardware or torque specifications. My guess is the bike which Ann M.вЂ™s shop had in for service either 1) Had improperly torqued axle nuts or 2) Had the washers in an incorrect orientation which resulted in poor clamp force, then self-loosening. Vibrations and twisting torque also contribute to loosening, and I would suspect sin wave controllers paired with direct drive hub motors smooth these factors out. I believe the round axle, versus double D shaped axles (two flats) results in more friction grip because of more thread engagement and the thick steel frame + locking washers prevent self-loosening normally caused by side sliding or rocking of the hub motor axle under accel and decel.

#ADVANCED RAR REPAIR SALE FAIL HOW TO#

Just spoke with our technical support and service managers, and the only common questions they receive regarding the rear axle hardware on the RadWagon is how to re-install/arrange/what order the washers go on after being removed to change flats. Those are great links thanks for sharing! I might convert to a mid-drive depending on the cost of replacement parts. I worry about how much $$ it might cost to keep the Radrover running out of warranty. Never an issues trouble-shooting with them and shipping of replacement parts.

I have to commend Rad Power Bikes on their responsiveness and customer service. Put the old controller back on the RR to trouble-shoot and that worked and zero errors after +350 miles. Installed all 3 and got the same 30 maintain error every single time I engaged the PAS. Rad Power Bikes sent me a new controller, wiring harness, and controller under warranty to resolve the issue. A few months later, the 30 maintain error would occur in the middle of the ride and shut down +10 times a ride. It started only at start-up 1-3 times in a row but, wouldn't occur for the rest of the ride (6-30 mile rides). The second Radrover developed a controller issue (30 maintain error) around the 500 mile mark. A thicker box with extra padding would help solve warranty issues as you ship further across the country (WA to NM). I assumed both were shipped at the same time side-by-side because they arrived on the same delivery truck. The second Radrover shipping box was in very good condition. The same Radrover (with shipping damage) battery stopped charging after 200 miles (it would power the bike and discharge properly). New controller under warranty resolved this issue. I had to pause my peddling for 2-4 seconds before it would restart the motor. I later developed and issue on the same RR with the shipping damage with the controller hitting the power cut-off and watts show 000 and the power wouldn't re-engage when you mph slow down below the cut off speed. minor stuff like re-torquing nuts/bolts/screws, adjusting brakes, adjusting derailleur (constantly), and tightening spokes Only a replacement crank under warranty worked. damage to pedal crank and it fell off in the first 10 miles. bent rear derailleur causing the chain to rub the rear tire in 3 lower gears (bent back in alignment) First issue I've had was related to shipping and one of the Rovers with minor damage like: I have two 2016 Radrovers since Sept/2016 with about 1000 miles each. I placed a few screw bolts on the bottom foot to help ease wear on the plastic. Mine tends to show wear on the bottom end. What a pain).Д®very month or so, depending on how often your ride, inspect the bottom of your kick stand. The other had rust on non-treated bolts (especially the controller bolts. Both rovers had brake levers tilted too high up.ДЇew days after rain or beach - inspect all bolts and overall bike for rust.

Tilt brake levers down a tad to put less strain on the wrists by not having to twist your wrist down/fingers up just to clear the brake levers to get access. I found using a softer brake pad on the rear cuts down on excessive heavy braking thus leaving a more desired tread wear (less micro-skidding). This is most likely due to 20+ mph and city street braking of a 60 lb bike + rider/gear (So trying to stop around 225-300 lbs?) Brakes need lots of adjustments to maintain tightness.

Advanced rar repair sale fail